Throwing Color

During my layover in Delhi, I asked my new friend about a holiday I had seen listed in March, Phagu Purnima (Holi). She told me that it would be 3 days after I arrived in Kathmandu, but it was not a very fun holiday. On this day, children lean over rooftop ledges and throw water balloons down on passers by. People paint their faces and walk through the streets throwing water balloons and red powder on people. Translated into English, they call it “throwing water” and “throwing color”. I asked her if she would like to come out with me on that day to an area that would have a street parade. She commented that she had grown up in Nepal and had already had enough of throwing color. Especially since little boys will often target the girls to throw color at.

After I got to the guest house in Patan (South Kathmandu) I asked the young operator of the house about the holiday. He said that for the most part it was not bad. Many people would ask you before throwing color, although sometimes children throw water without asking. He continued by saying, “I do not like this kind of game. I think that if both people want to play and throw water and color it is ok, but if one person does not like to play then they should not have water and color thrown on them.” I called my friend from the plane ride to ask her if she would go to the street parade. She said that her family was keeping all of the girls inside that day so she would not be leaving the house. With her sister’s wedding the next day, it made sense that people did not want to be covered in red powder that doesn’t necessarily wash off right away.

On the day of the holiday, I had to move from one guest house to another due to a large reservation moving in at my current guest house. The walk was only about a mile, but I had to make it twice to carry my bags. The first time, I was hit with a few water balloons from the rooftops, but on a hot day in the valley it didn’t feel bad. Several men came up to me asking to put red powder on my face, saying, “Holi, holi, holi!” Each time I politely declined and while they would ask many times none of them threw color without permission. On the second trip, I walked with a lively 80 year-old volunteer surgeon I had made friends with. He had offered to let me stay in the second bed in his room at the new guest house, saving me from taking a room at lower grade guest house. The two of us walked to the new guest house together, taunting some of the rooftop water throwers and laughing as some balloons hit us and many missed. We encouraged children in the street to try to hit us with water balloons, dodging their attempts. The neighbors of the guest house had both children and adults throwing water balloons and we took some extra time in front of the house encouraging them to throw water at us.

After going inside I got my camera and went back outside to ask the neighbors if I could take their photo. With their permission I took some photos of them on the rooftop and the children started running downstairs to meet me. The properties were separated by two chain link fences and just as I was inside the guest house, all the children were at their fence motioning and calling for me to come back so they could throw water. With them was also an older man who had a bag of red powder in his hand. I took some more photos from inside the doorway and then decided to put my camera in my pocket and go outside. They were all motioning for me to come around to their side of the fence. I motioned back for them to throw everything through the fences right before I held my arms out sideways and closed my eyes, giving the body language that I was ready to be the target. In a few seconds I felt a barrage of water balloons all over and a handful of red powder hit my face. I laughed and waved at the family across the fences, they were laughing too and saying, “Holi, holi!” Coming inside, the operator of the guest house was surprised at the neighbor’s behavior, but I told him that I asked for it and he was satisfied. I asked him to take some pictures and he kindly obliged. Some concerned tourists coming down the stairs looked worried for their color-free safety outside. I told them that I had asked for it and they seemed satisfied enough to continue going outside.

You only live once and I mostly regret the things that I don’t do. I sat on the balcony upstairs, satisfied that I hadn’t turned down the opportunity to participate in the holiday. In fact, in usual fashion, I had gone over the top and made sure that I wouldn’t be concerned later about not giving it my all.